The cultural tapestry of Sicily is a rich and varied one. Invasions by the Phoenicians, ancient Greeks, Romans, Moors, Normans, Spanish, and Italians left their mark, particularly in the island’s architecture and culinary traditions. The island is best explored through those understated haunts where locals convene, centuries-old buildings that lie well off the tourist track, and family-run restaurants where a simple cannoli can move you to tears.
To attempt to scratch into Sicily’s proud soul in a few weeks is ambitious—a few days is simply an aperitivo, just enough time to fall wildly and irrevocably in love with this sun-bleached island. Here’s our insider guide on how to tackle Sicily in just three days.
A version of this article originally appeared in Condé Nast Traveller UK. All listings featured on Condé Nast Traveler are independently selected by our editors. If you book something through our links, we may earn an affiliate commission.
Old town in SyracuseGetty Images
Day 1
Morning
Begin your whistle-stop tour of South Eastern Sicily in the sea-fronted glory of Syracuse. The ancient Greek city connects to Ortigia, a UNESCO World Heritage site island with a food market (on Via Emmanuele De Benedictis) well worth waking up early for. Held from seven in the morning until two in the afternoon every Sunday, it’s a sensory assault with the island’s bounty piled high on tables: olives, lemons, herbs, enormous wheels of cheese, capers, spanking fresh seafood. Octopus tentacles hang from boxes, swordfish heads protrude from tables, vendors gesticulate emphatically.
Scoff a millefoglie (raisin pastry) or ciambelle (a Sicilian spin on the donut) while browsing and observing the ancient market rhythms—and don’t leave without trying the ricotta-stuffed croissants at Sapori dei Gusti Smarriti. Sicilian mornings are typically sweet, so having wandered around Piazza del Duomo and gasped at the surrounding buttermilk-hued splendor, scuttle into Bar Condorelli for granita and warm brioche.