Those brown spots sprouting up on your cheeks? If you’re over 40, they’re probably not the adorable freckles of your youth, but more likely hyperpigmentation, a common skin condition that affects tens of millions of people in the U.S. each year. Hyperpigmentation occurs when parts of your skin become discolored or darker than the surrounding areas. It comes in many forms — from sun and age spots to melasma and post-inflammatory scarring from acne, bug bites and other skin wounds. Women are more likely to develop it and, specifically, women of color are more likely to develop melasma. Because these issues can be exacerbated by sun exposure, if you’re experiencing it, summer is the time to take extra caution to protect and care for your skin.
I spoke with Dr. Marisa Garshick, a board-certified dermatologist at New Jersey’s MDCS Dermatology, about how to address hyperpigmented skin during these summer weeks (and beyond) and keep the condition from getting worse.
What causes hyperpigmentation?
“Hyperpigmentation is the result of an increase in melanin and can result from UV exposure and environmental stressors that lead to free radical damage and manifest as brown spots,” Garshick says. “It can arise in the setting of what is known as ‘post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation,’ which refers to discoloration that occurs as a result of skin injury or skin inflammation, such as after an acne breakout or bug bite. Another type of hyperpigmentation is melasma, which typically occurs on sun-exposed areas of the face and can be triggered by hormonal changes.”
How can I avoid exacerbating hyperpigmentation in the summer?
Garshick says daily sunscreen use is key all year long, but especially during the summer months, and certain types will work better than others. “For those with hyperpigmentation, a tinted sunscreen may provide added benefits to protect the skin against high-energy visible light, also known as blue light, which can occur from the sun and may exacerbate pigmentation,” she explains. “It is also important to wear a wide-brimmed hat or a UPF-protective shield like the Bluestone Shield [visor] when outdoors.” Garshick says that not only is it essential to apply sunscreen before heading outside, it’s especially important to reapply every two hours during the summer months to minimize UV exposure. “I’d also say to avoid peak hours in the sun and seek shade when possible,” she notes.
What are the best in-office treatments for hyperpigmentation?
“Chemical peels, including AHAs like glycolic acid, lactic acid and mandelic acid, are all great options to help treat hyperpigmentation,” Garshick told me. “Lasers and light-based devices can also be used to treat hyperpigmentation, including treatments like Intense Pulsed Light (IPL), Q-Switch or Pico lasers and fractional resurfacing lasers. It is always best to discuss with a board-certified dermatologist to determine what’s best for you, as different forms of hyperpigmentation may respond better to different treatments.”
Are there effective at-home remedies for hyperpigmentation?
“Sun protection with sunscreens containing physical blockers such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, as well as ingredients that may protect against high-energy visible light or blue light, such as iron oxide,” Garshick says. “This is important for those with melasma or hyperpigmentation, as some early research has shown pigmentation and discoloration to be associated with blue-light exposure.”
To lighten existing hyperpigmentation, she says to look for products with the following key ingredients: hydroquinone, retinoids, azelaic acid, glycolic acid, kojic acid, cysteamine and licorice root extract, “Many of these ingredients inhibit tyrosinase, a key enzyme in the production of melanin,” Garshick explains.
Here are a few of the specific products she recommends.
Amazon
“This serum is a great option to help with hyperpigmentation, dark spots and uneven skin tone,” Garshick says. “It contains melasyl as well as niacinamide to help fade dark marks and discoloration, working to even skin tone. It also incorporates the La Roche-Posay Thermal Spring Water to help soothe the skin.”
Amazon
“Containing thiamidol, this serum helps to reduce dark spots and also contains hyaluronic acid to nourish the skin and smooth the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,” she says.
Amazon
Garshick likes this tinted sunscreen for hyperpigmented skin. “It’s a lightweight, broad-spectrum mineral sunscreen that uses zinc oxide, 12%, iron oxide, antioxidants and a patented Enviroscreen technology to protect against UVA/UVB, blue light, pollution and infrared radiation.” It’s available in four shades, which she notes makes it easy to blend with your skin, while also using “iron oxide pigments to adapt to your specific tone without leaving the skin feeling greasy, making it good for all skin types.” On top of all that, it’s water resistant for up to 40 minutes, so it’s a good option for swimming outdoors.
Boscovs
“Once applied, this easy-to-use stick transforms to a serum and offers a really targeted approach to dark spots,” Garshick says. “It combines tranexamic acid, kojic acid and vitamin C to help address pigmentation. It also contains niacinamide, which helps to improve discoloration while also soothing the skin.”
Mother Science
Garshick says this award-winning serum is “great for dark spots as it contains malassezin, a powerful antioxidant that targets pigmentation, as well as niacinamide and alpine rose extract to help even skin tone. It can be used twice daily, in the morning and evening, and layers easily under moisturizer.”
Derm Street
This potent serum is among Garshick’s favorites for fading dark spots. “It includes a patented technology to help improve discoloration without using a retinol or hydroquinone. It can be used twice daily,” she explains. “I especially love that it absorbs easily and is easy to layer without leaving the skin feeling sticky.”