Suffering under the unforgiving reign of skinny jeans made the pendulum swing to wide-leg pants even more of a joy. But while they’re pretty universal at this point, voluminous trousers can be a little tricky to style.
When she was 22 years old, Madison Brill, current design director of Chateau Marmont, was working at Gagosian in New York, minding the front desk in a pair of vintage 1970s green striped flare pants. In walked Patti Smith, who, according to Brill, said, “Oh my God, I love your pants.”
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To get a similar reaction—though maybe from a mere stranger rather than a rock legend—Brill suggests for a modern take involves adhering to a certain ratio. “I personally love a high fitted waist for a wide-leg pant, something to cinch your waist and bellows out to create a more long-leg flattering look. If I’m opting for a mid-rise pant, I like the width to be the same throughout.”
Simone Silverman, editor of Margot Magazine, described herself as “committed and dedicated to the silhouette.” The first time we met in person, she strolled—people who wear wide-leg trousers tend to stroll—into the hotel lobby with sneakers and a palpable sense of self. Her obsession began with the actor Katharine Hepburn. In the 1980s, she shopped at the Army and Navy surplus stores for vintage dark navy wool sailor trousers. And since then, it’s been her signature cut. She subscribes to a less mathematical approach to wide-leg dressing. “They must have a lanky, languid feel, no matter the material.”
When Taylor Hansen Hughes, a curator and wardrobe stylist, works with clients to find their dream wide-leg pants, she’s material agnostic. “Denim! Linen! Wool! All of the above. The tip is in the tailoring.” Her current favorite is a posh pair with an exaggerated leg by Saint Sintra, which she says are, “cut at the length to show off any delicious shoes. They’re a pant that shows off every other part of your outfit, but somehow still steals the show.” Spoken like a true expert.