Lambson’s Connect the Dots Blended Syrah 2021, 13.5%, Lay & Wheeler, £21.81
But top of my list these days, when it comes to South Africa, is chenin blanc. I don’t buy it as an alternative to chenin blanc from the Loire, though. I love the glittering thrust and nervosity of acidity of Loire chenin blanc, but Cape chenin does something different. Yes, it can be refreshing and pleasingly taut, but it’s more padded and satisfyingly textured, sometimes with subtle notes of apricot, lemon curd and toast. I began hunting out South African chenin when I was in the mood for white burgundy – it really scratches that particular itch – and soon found I was thirsting for it in its own right.
I love to pour a glass of Cape chenin alongside crab and fresh coriander on toast, or with skewers of pork loin, marinated in olive oil, paprika, lemon, cumin and garlic. It’s also good with a weekend roast chicken. Try Wolf & Woman Chenin Blanc 2022, Swartland (13%, Justerini & Brooks, £23.40), which has a faintly smoky smell, then notes of pastel de nata with a salty freshness. Or Tim Hillock Wines La Cosmica Chenin Blanc 2022, Swartland (13%, Lea & Sandeman, £25.95).